Best Gas Generator for Home – 2025 Reviews

Figuring out how many watts you actually need is the most important—and most overlooked—step in choosing a home generator. I’ve seen people buy massive units that guzzle fuel for needs they don’t have, or worse, tiny generators that can’t handle their refrigerator and lights simultaneously. Start by making a list of essential appliances: refrigerator (600-800 watts), well pump (1000-1500 watts), furnace blower (800 watts), and some lights and electronics. Add up the starting watts (usually 2-3 times running watts for motors) to get your total requirement.

For most homes, 5000-8000 running watts covers essentials, while 10,000+ watts handles central air and multiple large appliances. Remember that overestimating is safer than underestimating—you don’t want to discover your generator can’t handle your sump pump during a flood.

Gasoline generators are the most common, but propane and natural gas options offer significant advantages during extended outages. Gasoline provides maximum power but has a shorter shelf life and can be difficult to store safely in large quantities. Propane lasts indefinitely in storage and burns cleaner, while natural gas offers unlimited supply if you have a gas line—but typically with reduced power output.

Dual-fuel and tri-fuel generators like the Westinghouse models give you the flexibility to use whatever fuel is available during emergencies. I always recommend prioritizing fuel flexibility if your budget allows—it’s heartbreaking to have a generator but no usable fuel during a crisis.

During a multi-day outage, how often you need to refuel becomes a major consideration. Generators with larger fuel tanks and eco-mode features can run 10-20 hours on a single tank, while smaller units might need refueling every 6-8 hours. Look for models with fuel gauges and efficient engines—inverter generators typically offer better fuel economy than conventional models.

The runtime directly impacts your quality of life during outages. Waking up every few hours to refuel a generator gets old fast, especially in bad weather. Balance your power needs with practical runtime considerations based on your typical outage patterns.

How you start your generator matters more than you might think—especially during stressful emergency situations. Electric start with remote capability is fantastic for convenience, but recoil start provides reliable backup when batteries fail. I’ve found that models with both starting options offer the best of both worlds.

Consider who will be operating the generator. If it’s for family use during your absence, electric start with simple controls is essential. Also look for features like automatic low oil shutdown and clear indicator lights that make operation safer and more straightforward.

Home backup generators range from 50-pound portable units to 300-pound beasts that stay in one place. Consider where you’ll store the generator and how you’ll move it to your operating location. Models with wheel kits and handles are much easier to position, while lighter inverter generators offer maximum flexibility.

Remember that you’ll need to store the generator in a dry, well-ventilated area away from living spaces. Proper storage affects longevity—I’ve seen generators fail because they were stored damp or exposed to elements between uses.

Generator safety is non-negotiable, yet many people overlook critical features that prevent accidents. Look for automatic low oil shutdown, circuit breaker protection, and GFCI outlets for water resistance. Carbon monoxide detection and automatic shutdown are becoming essential safety features—several modern generators now include this potentially life-saving technology.

Always operate generators outdoors in well-ventilated areas, and never use extension cords not rated for generator use. Transfer switches are the safest way to connect generators to your home electrical system—they prevent backfeed that could endanger utility workers.

A generator is a long-term investment, so manufacturer support matters. Look for brands with solid warranties (3 years is typical for quality units) and accessible customer service. I’ve found that companies with nationwide service networks provide much better support when you need parts or repairs.

Read the fine print on warranty coverage—some exclude commercial use or have specific maintenance requirements. Proper documentation and maintenance tracking can make the difference between a covered repair and an expensive out-of-pocket fix down the road.

Most homes need between 5,000 and 15,000 watts for whole-house coverage, depending on what appliances you want to run simultaneously. A typical 2,000-square-foot home with central air conditioning usually requires 10,000-12,000 running watts to handle everything including the HVAC system, refrigerator, lights, and well pump. However, you can significantly reduce power needs by prioritizing essentials—many families comfortably weather outages with 5,000-8,000 watts covering refrigeration, basic lighting, and a few outlets.

The most accurate approach is to calculate your specific appliance requirements or consult with an electrician about a transfer switch installation that matches your generator’s capacity to your home’s essential circuits.

Conventional generators produce power directly from the engine at a consistent RPM, making them powerful but less efficient and noisier. Inverter generators use advanced electronics to produce cleaner, stable power that’s safe for sensitive electronics like computers and modern appliances. Inverters are typically quieter, more fuel-efficient, and lighter, but usually cost more per watt and have lower maximum power output.

For home backup, conventional generators work well for powering motors and large appliances, while inverter generators excel at running electronics and providing quieter operation. Many homeowners choose conventional models for whole-house coverage and smaller inverters for specific electronic needs or portable power.

Regular maintenance is crucial for generator reliability when you need it most. I recommend running your generator for 20-30 minutes every month to keep components lubricated and prevent fuel system issues. Change the oil every 50-100 hours of operation or at least annually, and replace the air filter and spark plug according to the manufacturer’s schedule—typically every 100-200 hours.

For gasoline generators, use fuel stabilizer if storing for more than a month, and consider draining the fuel system if storing for extended periods. Keeping a maintenance log helps track service intervals and ensures your generator remains ready for emergencies.

Never connect a generator directly to your home’s electrical system without a proper transfer switch—this is extremely dangerous and illegal in most areas. Backfeeding power through outlets can electrocute utility workers and cause fires. A transfer switch installed by a licensed electrician is the only safe way to connect a generator to your home’s circuits.

Transfer switches isolate selected circuits from the grid and connect them to your generator, ensuring safe operation and preventing backfeed. They typically cost $500-$1500 installed but provide peace of mind and convenience that’s worth every penny during actual power outages.

Generator noise levels range from about 50 decibels for small inverter models to 75+ decibels for large conventional generators—roughly equivalent to normal conversation versus a lawn mower. Most home backup generators operate in the 65-75 decibel range, which is noticeable but manageable with proper placement away from windows and neighbors.

Inverter generators are significantly quieter, often in the 50-60 decibel range, making them better for residential areas with close neighbors. Whatever you choose, position the generator downwind from your house and consider noise-reduction options if sound is a concern in your neighborhood.